Contact Us

Registered Office

Alliance Agro Farms

Flat No. 203,
Parimala Residency,
Upstairs of More Supermarket,
Sri Krishna Nagar,
Hyderabad - 500045
Telangana, India.
Mobile: +91 9963657777
           +91 9849366630


What kind of fencing do I need?

Good Fencing is SOOO important to your goats' safety! Fencing must be completely secure on all sides. DOMESTIC DOGS ARE A MAJOR THREAT. SOME CAN AND WILL KILL GOATS. DO NOT LET DOGS CHASE GOATS -EVEN IN PLAY. DOGS SHOULD NEVER BE IN SAME ENCLOSURE AS GOATS.

We recommend no-climb fence (which consists of 2" wide by 4" high mesh) that is 4 to 5 feet high. If fencing is 4 feet, we recommend hot wire across the top. Other good fencing is chain-link or stiff wire with wood framing to hold its shape. The fence needs to be pulled taught across the bottom of the fence to prevent dogs and coyotes from digging under it.

Hot wire alone is NOT sufficient to keep goats in or predators out. It works very well on top and at bottom of fence as additional reinforcement.

Why can't I tether or stake out a goat?

When tethered, goats are completely vulnerable to dogs and other predators even if they are staked in a fenced area-they cannot run away if a dog decides to spend the afternoon digging under to get them. It only takes a few minutes for a goat to get twisted in the rope, chain, etc. and have it pulled so tight around their leg or foot that it cuts off their circulation and causes a major injury or death.

They can hang themselves-there are a million different ways. Collars are not recommended either It is unnatural for goats to be tied. They are browsers and like to run from plant to plant and stay on the move. They do not eat as well when they are staked-nibbling here and there but mostly waiting, and crying, for someone to return and un-stake them.

Why do I need more than one goat?

Goats are herd animals-they should never be pastured alone no matter how socialized to people they are. When you go in your house at night-a lone goat has no friend to cuddle up with-which they like to do to feel safe and secure.

What do goats eat?

Feeding errors account for more than 90% of goat diseases and deaths. Goats love pasture grass but should have woody plants as often as possible (daily if possible) such as blackberry, salmonberry, apple tree trimmings, alders, etc. They also like weeds such as dandelions, blackberries, thistle, salmonberry, alder, but also eat grass. Grass alone is not the ideal goat diet-- If you do not have pasture for your goats -they can do well on good quality grass if supplemented with woody plants.

What are some key things to know about feeding goats?

MOST IMPORTANT : To prevent occurrence of urinary calculi, which is fatal, wethers (castrated males) should not have ANY grain products or alfalfa hay and must have access to mineralized salt at all times. This has been confirmed by vet hospitals and vets in the area. PLEASE adhere to this. We are getting more and more inquiries for people wanting to adopt goats who have lost their wethers to Urinary Calculii.

VERY IMPORTANT : Rhododendrons and other ornamental plants including azaleas, golden chain, and other landscaping shrubs, flowers, and bulbs are extremely poisonous to goats. Even a few Rhododendron leaves can kill a goat. This includes dried and old leaves. To be safe--make sure your children, neighbors, and children's friends know NOT to feed your goats anything over the fence. If you go to the web and type in Goats and Poisonous in search field you can get a complete listing of poisonous plants. Goat supply houses sell an antitoxin paste containing activated charcoal to neutralize poison until seen by a vet

Goats & Trees : Goats love to rest under trees but young saplings are at risk of getting debarked so if there are young trees in your pastures that you want to see grow up-fence them off Goats need access to clean fresh water at all times.

What supplements or other dietary needs to goats have?

SALT/minerals : Loose mineralized salt is better than traditional salt block and must be available at all times especially if you own wethers (castrated males) It is softer than the standard horse/cattle salt blocks making it easier for them to get what they need from it. You can purchase loose salt from goat supply houses and many feed stores.

BAKING SODA : a small container of baking soda can help with their digestion as needed. They should have free choice of this at all times, just like the salt block

SELENIUM : Our area is selenium deficient. Goats should get injection of VitaminE/Selenium and Vitamin A/D once per year. Average 100 lb goat gets 1.5 cc's under skin

What kind of shelter do my goats need?

Goats do NOT like the rain! A wet goat is vulnerable to respiratory illness. Goats require a dry, ventilated shelter. A stall where they can be locked in at night is best but a three-sided enclosure is fine unless you live in a high predator area. Straw or pine shavings can be used as bedding-as long as it stays dry. For their safety--It is always best to lock them in at night

Goats are very curious and they like to climb and play on things-an old picnic table, stumps or anything else they can jump up on provides hours of fun and entertainment for the goats AND you! Collars not recommended as they can easily get hung up with all of their jumping and other acrobatics

What kind of veterinary care do goats need?

Vaccines : One inexpensive annual vaccine for tetanus called CDT available at feed stores or vet. One to two times per year. Tetanus lives in the soil so if cut (ie: during hoof trimming) be sure to give them the vaccine right away if they have not had it. The injection is given under the skin

Hoof Care : Different goat's feet grow at different rates so it is hard to say exactly how often to trim their hooves. Four times per year is an average. You can do it yourself with a good pair of garden snippers. We always show everyone who adopts our goats how to trim their hooves. Good diagrams and instructions are also available on the web.

Worming : You can use horse paste wormers. We recommend Panacure (Safeguard) alternated with Ivermectin (brands like Zimectrin). Most vets recommend doubling the recommended dose for horses since goats have four stomachs. We recommend worming your goat every 6 to eight weeks. If heavy parasite load is suspected-worm five days in a row with Safeguard, doubling dose. Worm again once in ten-14 days. Next time-----alternate Ivermectin as it kills different bugs. Please consult vet-there are many different opinions regarding worming a goat with a heavy parasite load.

What kind of illnesses and ailments can goats get?

Like many domesticated livestock, goats are susceptible to several ailments. Some are listed below, and additional resources are available on this website.

Limping : overgrown feet or hoof rot from standing in wet/ mucky areas. Hoof rot usually easily remedied with ThrushBuster (available at feed stores) or 2 c. rubbing alcohol with 3 T terramycin powder. Please consult a vet or there is also good info on internet regarding hoof rot/hoof scald and various treatments

Bloat : putting goats on lush spring pasture if they are not used to it can cause fatal bloat. If they raid the grain bin they can also bloat. If you keep grain on your property-keep it in a separate building or locked enclosure. Any dramatic change of feed can cause bloat

Pneumonia : there are several kinds but the basic things to watch for are yellow/green nasal discharge, off feed, depressed, rattly cough and fever; (101.5 to 103.5 is normal) Antibiotics are needed right away if feverish

Poisoning : wailing and laying down/getting up; foaming at mouth or green discharge, vomiting. Vet is needed immediately. Advise you ALWAYS keep on hand a tube of activated charcoal-a universal oral antidote available at many feed stores

Urine blockage (Urinary Calculii) : Straining to urinate, depressed, bloated looking. this is important if you have a wether (castrated male)-it is fatal and believed to be caused by alfalfa and/or grain in their diet. Wethers should not have alfalfa or grain and always have salt so they drink plenty of water to keep them flushed out

Lice : Injectible ivermectin (it stings and is expensive), poultry dusting powder or Corral horse dust. Redust in 10 days to kill any hatchlings

What are some home remedies I can use?

For TEMPORARY relief from poisoning : Activated charcoal can be purchased via some goat supply houses in paste form 
For TEMPORARY relief poisoning : 6 T. Milk of Magnesia, 1 T baking Soda, 1 t. ginger (the spice) administer orally with syringe or mix with black tea
For TEMPORARY relief of bloat : (per Pilchuck Vet hospital. ) 2 T. Tide ( powdered, no bleach) detergent, 1 t. baking soda, mix with water. Administer orally (per Pilchuck Vet hospital. )

How do I tell if my goat is in heat?

The goat is classified as seasonally polyestrous. This is a fancy way of saying that she comes in heat several times in the fall. Most goats start coming in heat when the days begin getting shorter in the fall. They will usually behave differently than normal - bleating or calling constantly, flagging or wagging the tail off and on or when you run your hand down her rump, & mounting other goats. Milk production may be down and she may not eat the same as usual. If there is a buck nearby, she might plant herself at the part of the fence nearest the buck and won't want to leave. Of course there is the exception to this rule. Some does never show any signs of heat. This is called a "silent heat" and can be very frustrating. Most does with silent heats will show signs of interest when teased with the buck, but not always. If you don't have a buck, get a "buck rag". This is a rag that is rubbed on the buck until it is nice and smelly and kept in an airtight jar. The doe gets to smell it every day twice a day until she shows interest.

Sometimes, the only way to get a doe bred is to run her with the buck. Do this for a minimum of three weeks after the first breeding, just in case it didn't take and she comes back in heat.

What is the gestation period for goats? (How long will she be pregnant?)

A normal pregnancy in a goat lasts for about 5 months from the date of breeding.

How long do goats live?

A goat is considered mature at 4 to 5 years of age. An 11 year old goat is an old goat! Most does will live longer than the bucks, usually because they receive better care. I heard of an 18 year old goat that was still milking and kidding yearly! Now THAT is an OLD GOAT!!

Asking the Right Questions before Buying Goats

Although you probably are excited to buy goats and bring them home, taking some precautions to make sure that you get healthy goats is an important first step. After you have determined what kind of goats you want and how you intend to use them, you can eliminate goats from consideration by asking the following questions:

  • Are your goats registered? If so, with what registry?
  • What vaccinations do you give your goats?
  • Do you routinely test your goats for any diseases?
  • Are these goats negative for CAEV and CL?
  • Have you had any health problems in your herd, and if so, what were they?
  • Are your goats polled or disbudded?
  • Have you had any goats die from undiagnosed disease in the past few years? If so, what are the details?
  • Do you bottle-feed or dam-raise kids? Do you pasteurize the milk?
  • Have you had a history of abortion in your herd?
  • What is your feeding program?
  • How much milk do you get from your goats? Are you on milk test?
  • Have you had any goats die from undiagnosed disease in the past few years? If so, what are the details?
  • Do you bottle-feed or dam-raise kids? Do you pasteurize the milk?
  • Have you had a history of abortion in your herd?
  • What is your feeding program?
  • If you're buying goats to raise for meat: What kinds of market weights do you get for your goats?
  • If you're buying goats for fiber: How much fiber and what type do you get from your goats?
  • If you're buying dairy goats: How much milk do you get from your goats? Are you on milk test?

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